Its fascinating to us how perfumes which are invisible can have a texture, but the fragrances listed below really do give a sense of that, as they cocoon you with their musky, woody, velvety, leathery qualities. You can smell scents featuring ink on their fragrance pyramid and be right back there in the classroom, getting a whiff from your inky fingers. LOccitane en Provence Verbena Sorbet The whole tanning process smells repulsive, though, so leathers were treated with oils, musk, civet and ambergris, to mask the smell of the animals skins. "Crystalline in form and snow-white in color, coumarins presence in fragrances is ubiquitous. Perfume Bottles Auction 2023: The worlds most fabulous flaons could be yours! It can "lift" white flowers, but also - in partnership with woods or amber - can create roundness and depth. Birch tar can be one of the ingredients going in there. Cartier Les Heures de Cartier LHeure Folle X Chopard Wish Pure Nice myth, though. Guerlain Vetiver Theyre often eaten raw, to enjoy the sweet/sour flavour blend from the thin rind, contrasted with the juicy flesh. Este Lauder Sensuous L.VilloresPiper Negrum. Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle. Guerlain Aprs lOnde Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Leather Oud So fast does the rose fade, in fact, that some farmers in Turkey and Bulgaria transport their own copper stills to the fields, heating them on the spot over wood fires to distill the precious Damask Rose oil, which separates from the water when heated in only the tiniest of quantities: 170 rose flowers are said to relinquish but a single drop. If any single ingredient can create those effects, its musk. Water lilies Nymphea get their name from Greek mythology, from the nymphs who played in springs or pools. Is there anyone doesnt love the smell of new-mown grass? (And dont blame us if youre busted sniffing the fruitbowl!) Were generally not so familiar with the flowers which arent any help to perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous? He echoes our comment above: 'You have to make your leather chord. Once upon a time, dried fruits were a serious luxury, for the wealthy to enjoy in haute cuisine. (Pink pepper a.k.a. Its derived from a tree in Central and South America (Copaifera officinalis) and acts as a base note and fixative. Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka After those rhizomes have aged, theyre powdered and then steam-distilled, producing orris oil, which solidifies into something known as orris butter (or orris concrete), because of its oily, yellow texture and appearance. It looks like cinnamon. Now it has a somewhat old-fashioned, great-aunt-ish image, which means carnation tends to be consigned the chorus of a perfume rather than placed in the spotlight. And who can resist the smell, either: soft, sweet and violet-like, and a touch fruity? WebCalifornia Cosmetic Fragrance and Flavor Ingredient Right to Know Act of 2020 (SB 312) In October 2020, California Governor Gavin Newsom signed the California Cosmetic The rise (and rise) of fruity scents has given a new lease of life to this fruit, once reserved for the pudding course and jam-making. Tom Ford Oud Wood. Cartier Les Heures Voyageuses Oud & Menthe Long before that, though, the bitter orange tree is thought to have been brought to Europe by the Arabs from the Middle East, when the trade routes opened up. Evody Note de Luxe So the story goes, Ernest Beaux Chanels original perfumer either misread his sums, or accidentally tipped a much greater quantity of aldehydes into the sample of perfume he was preparing for the discerning Mademoiselle Chanel, creating an overdose with almost 1% aldehydes. But indole can also be created synthetically, producing a crystal-like substance that smells of nothing so much as your great aunts mothballs, till its massively diluted. ', Atelier Cologne rose Anonyme Clive Christian C for Women Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli Tangerine was named after Tangier in Morocco, which has been exporting tangerines since 1841. Donna Karan DKNY Red Delicious Here's perfumer Sarah McCartneyof 4160 Tuesdayson Tolu balsam 'Funny how the official descriptions just say is smells balsamic. Its been around for thousands of years: archaeologists found Roman licorice along Hadrians Wall, and it was also uncovered in the pyramids. (Rather usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as a stypic, i.e. An oil from the Indian sandal tree, sandalwood is one of the oldest known perfumery ingredients, that is commonly used as a base note. Diane von Furstenberg Diane Tuberose is a plant with highly perfumed white flowers, resembling those of a lily. (Doesnt mean it will. Herms 24 Faubourg Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Opoponax catches alight easily, which explains why its been used for incense for centuries: King Solomon apparently regarded opopanax as the noblest of incense gums. According to predictions, rhubarb is set to become even more of a key ingredient in future fragrance trends Aedes de Venustus Eau de Parfum By Kilian Incense Oud Agrumen This perfume ingredient is an aldehyde that is described to have a fresh, green and soap-like ), while others describe it as creamy, musky or labdanum-like. This somehow led to the idea that where rosemary grew outside a house, it symbolised that a woman ruled the household. Crush the leaves of this frothily-flowered plant, and they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically. Frederic Malle Carnal Flower The word bergamot derives from bergomotta in Italian and from Bergamum, a town in Italy. Gardeners everywhere probably wish that every dandelion on the planet could be weeded out and imprisoned in a perfume bottle. Herms Hermessence Ambre Narguile (Labdanum is today extracted from the leaves using solvents, although the branches can also be boiled.). In Greek and Roman times, heroes were garlanded by laurel another name for bay - as a symbol of victory. But as the stories behind fragrance ingredients go, they surely dont come much more romantic than that, Prada Les Infusions de Prada Iris Jovoy Paris Chypre The use of this gloriously purple-coloured plant in perfumery goes right the way back to Ancient Egypt. Angels trumpets bloom at night, pumping out a heady, sweet scent which nowadays is often recreated synthetically. It rapidly became incredibly desirable (in every way) as a perfume ingredient, with artisans using civet (albeit highly-diluted) to scent gloves, in Shakespeares time. Mad et Len Eau de Fleur dOranger Vivienne Westwood Boudoir The tall tree native to America, and great for furniture-making incidentally! I love them for that. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur There are dried fruits giving it a gourmand character, supported by what brings "cocoa" to mind. Its used to beautiful effect in gourmand fragrances, and blends with woods and earthy notes, too. Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy ', Narcissus has been exciting perfumers for millennia. Today, iris plants happily grow everywhere from Europe to the Middle East, Asia and north Africa. Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme The word licorice (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning sweet root (it really is, if youve ever chewed a licorice stick). Its pretty unusual to see quinces growing (although the Spanish do use it to make a paste, membrillo, which is served with cheese) but they look half-way between a pear and an apple (to which its related). ), Donna Karan DKNY Delicious Night Lady Gaga Fame Moschino Couture Este Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia Bay laurel is evergreen (where would our gardens be without it? Jean Patou 1000 Does beeswax smell? She loved it. (Which basically means it makes some other ingredients work better together). Lancme O de Lancme Guerlain Shalimar When you're smelling a gourmand scent, then, see if you can make out either a burned sugar caramel quality, or a candyfloss, spun-sugar airiness. Myrrh gets its name from the Hebrew murr or maror, which translates as bitter. (Nobodys quite sure where the first flowers were grown; some believe it originated in Persia, and made its way to China via the Silk Route.). Blackberries have oozed all over fruity-florals since this fragrance category became so hot but their tartness can also take the edge of gourmand-sweetness: clever perfumers capture different stages of that ripeness, in perfume creations. And somewhat more heavy-handedly in home fragrance, loo cleaners and those taxi-cab car perfumes, Goutal Nuit Etoile Mariah Carey M. Weve noticed yuzu turning up in quite a few fragrance compositions lately. Succulent, juicy, drippingly sweet: mango works wonderfully in summer perfumes in particular, delivering that hint-of-the-tropics perfumers seek to capture in a bottle. Succulent but somehow creamy and milky. Apparently, this got its name from the way it manages to smell like a combination of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg sweet and dry, all at once. Not much romance here, were afraid. ChanelCoromandel WebLinalool is a super common fragranceingredient. The first isresinoid, which is perfectwith lavender. Womens chypres, and mens fragrances, are most likely to have a leathery sensuality, but perfumers can take leather on all sorts of fragrant journeys: woody, aromatic, floral, even gourmand. Histoire de Parfums 1889 Moulin Rouge Guerlain Rose Barbare Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Enchanted Adding to the cocktail of perfume ingredients, thats what, with its citrussy, tart-sweet fruitiness. There is an animalic, furry, dirty line. The tree probably gets its name from the Latin pira. Prada Intense Prada Little darling. This long-stalked plant has been used for centuries for medicinal purposes, as well as in cooking but with a little caution: the stalks may be edible, but the leaves are poisonous. In nature, of course, its toxic: the Atropa belladonna plant can kill. Taylor Swift Wonderstruck. Sensual, for sure, but again, with a more delicate touch. As a perfume ingredient, cannabis has been in the news recently as a controversial ingredient in actor Richard E. Grants debut scent. (Not to be confused with Star anise although the key component of the essential oil, anethole, is actually found in both.). The priciest of spices known as red gold saffrons one of the most ancient perfume ingredients: it was popular in Ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, often as a single note perfume, as well as in more complex blends. Mostly, the type used in perfumery is Pelargonium graveolens, or rose geranium: it gives a scent thats similar to rose, but with a lemony twist, and less of the powderiness. Rum itself dates back to the 17th Century and Caribbean sugar plantations: its distilled from molasses, the dark and syrupy by-product of sugar cane, and when aged in oak barrels takes on deep golden tones, and rich flavours. (Rather usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as a stypic, i.e. Guerlain Tonka Impriale (See also Artemisia). "Jasmin Sambac adds richness and naturality to all my creations and is quintessential for my floral bouquets.. 9 High Line This warm and complex resin is sometimes perceived as leathery, sometimes honey-like, with hints of plum. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture Rochas Femme Givenchy Amarige "It's milky and sweet, without being sugary, like vanilla with a hint of caramel. Bury your nose in an amaryllis (do mind the pollen! Amouroud Silk Route Serge Lutens Chergui Do you love licorice? When you read the note incense in a fragrance, if often means frankincense. Much was made, not long ago, of the discovery on a British beach of a whacking great lump of greyish-beige waxy material which turned out to be worth thousands of pounds. I sometimeswonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are soenchanting. "Thanks to new modern chypre fragrances, oakmoss is having a renaissance moment. It brings out the flavors of ginger, onions, adds warmth to the cocktail of exotic flavors from clove, pepper, cumin, fenugreek. Elemi is a pale yellow fragrant resin, tapped from a tree Manila Elemi, or Canarium luzonicum - which grows in the Philippines. Its pricy the third-costliest spice in the world (after vanilla and saffron) but so aromatic that only a touch is needed of the essential oil thats steam-distilled from the seeds of the Elletaria cardomomum plant. Get out your magnifying glass. Some people say it smells of onions or leeks; others, that it has a balsamy, resinous or even sweaty edge - but as with so many botanical ingredients, asafoetida can work magic when skilfully blended in perfumes: the teeniest of quantities acts as an accenter, to boost the power of other ingredients including galbanum, which is widely-used in chypre scents, including Ma Griffe by Carven, and Pierre Balmains Vent Vert. (And around the time of the 16th Century, not a few men could apparently be found ripping out rosemary bushes to show that they, not their wives, were boss.). Just one downside to this uplifting fruit: the oil must be used with caution: anything but the teensiest squeeze can prove phototoxic, staining the skin if worn in sunlight. 'Virginian cedar has a dry and almost "nervous" effect in a fragrance, whereas cedar wood from the Atlas Mountains is much warmer'. If youve ever walked in an evergreen forest, cedar will transport you back there, too. Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell (And thatll surely open up your air passages.) It can actually be created in nature through the activity of a bacteria called Streptomyces, along with a special enzyme. Even with the popularity of fruity-floral scents, kumquats still make an appearance on our plates far more often than in our perfume bottles. 'A very powerful molecule, in both masculine and feminine fragrances,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. Nina Ricci Ricci Ricci Cinnamon is one of the smells of Christmas: spicy and enticing, comforting and sweet, all at once. David & Victoria Beckham Signature for Her Kai Kai. For centuries, aside from perfumery, the mimosa tree has been used for many different purposes from medicinal to ornamental. "It turns a scent into a chypre, into a fougere, into an amber. Strawberry can be lush, juicy, fruity-green and not overpoweringly jammy, at all. (For the Romans, hawthorn was a symbol of marriage. In fragrance, though, peony is a fresh, soft floral note: uplifting, calming, working brilliantly alongside other floral notes, especially the equally delicately-petalled rose. Of course, perfumers can mimic the scent using other woody and ambery ingredients more abundant in nature but nothing compares to the complexity of high- quality natural oud oil, which has olfactory references to dry woods, ambery resins, and even leather. And in just one instance Escentric Molecules Molecule 01, created by daring contemporary perfumer Geza Schoen its been made the star of the show. Tom Ford Jonquille de Nuit Guerlain Aprs LOnde Alienor adds: 'It's smells like tea, actually.' When you spritz a scent and get an aquatic hit of melon, its probably not actually melon you smell that so-refreshing summer fruit but an ingredient called calone, one of the best-known synthetic ingredients in a perfumers weaponry. The availability of this synthetic ingredient has probably helped to shape the trend for aquatic fragrances, as well as for fruity-florals. How mysterious is that, as a fragrant ingredient? Chanel Gardnia (And weve adopted it ourselves.) "Orris is utterly timeless, and emerged through every single perfumery period, bringing unique nobility. (Time is money, in perfumery.) More likely, these days, its synthesised. Versace Versace. With fruits so abundant in contemporary perfumery, it was inevitable that the sweet stickiness of dried fruits, too, would be make their way into some creations. Technically, heliotrope can be still extracted by maceration (or through solvent extraction, the modern form of enfleurage), an echo of those times - but today its synthetic heliotropin read about it here which perfumers rely on. Giorgio Armani Sensi (We think of it as cheerfulness, bottled. By Kilian Back to Black "Created in the 1960s, it brings a strong note of "pure water", salty ocean air and is also reminiscent of watermelon. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Dior Addict LOccitane Cherry Blossom Herms Eau dOrange Verte ", Wood from a resinous South American tree, the oil of which used in perfumery, "Guaiac wood oil is a warm, woody note with balsamic notes and a central smoky feature. Chanel Les Exclusifs 31 Rue Cambon M.Micallef Ylang in Gold Its spicy-floral character works perfectly in many different florals though in small quantities; a known sensitiser for a very small percentage of wearers, its one of the ingredients which perfume houses must compulsorily list on a label. Citron is French for lemon. It gets its name from the Spanish word vaina (meaning sheath or pod, and translates simply as little pod. Says 'nose' Julie Mass: 'Lavender adds a herb-y note - but interestingly, by adding it to other fragrance notes you can push it towards 'cool' herb-y, towards the smell of mint, or you can go in the other direction and push it towards 'hot' herb-y, almost spicy, like the scent of a hot summer's night. Thats what youll get when you smell ambrette, an aromatic medicinal plant (musk mallow) which is native to India and used particularly in Ayurvedic medicine. Why black locust? Mimosa has a long tradition in perfumery: it was first used in making incense, and symbolised resurrection and immortality: Egyptian mythology linked the acacia tree with the tree of life, described in the Myth of Osiris and Isis. (Blackcurrant leaves can smell a little catty when you rub them between your finger though in a fragrance, that wont be apparent.) 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